I read a bittersweet autobiography by the outrageously talented Jeanette Winterson while living in the UK in the early 2000s. It was wonderfully titled Oranges Aren’t the Only Fruit. Without going into it, you immediately understand the essence. I think about that title as much as the story itself. Spending a few winters in the … Read more
Koftas, a name that comes from the Persian word for finely ground or minced, are not just dumplings—you’ll find them made from everything from eggs to fruit from Bucharest to Baghdad, Cairo to Kolkata—but perhaps the most popular version. it is made with lamb. Cheaper than buying whole cuts and quicker to cook, they’re also … Read more
A good, silky custard tart is a beauty, and a thin, buttery base and creamy filling with a delicate wobble is the stuff of my dreams. Once you’ve tried making your own, it’s going to be hard to buy it back from the store. I’ve zhuzhed the classic here with a rich, fruity honey and … Read more
Everyone (still) sitting comfortably? Do you still eat well? november huh? Food-wise, for me, the month has become more and more about turning to comfort foods. Comfort food means different things to different people, of course. For some, it suggests something to happily slurp or eat out of a bowl. For others, it’s a meal … Read more
Domaine François Merlin Condrieu Terroirs, Condrieu, Rhône, France 2020 (£48, robersonwine.com) I think of condrieu as a luxury wine, and I’d be lying if I said price doesn’t fall into that characterization: it’s very hard to find examples of this Rhône Valley white for under £30, and many far exceed that, which means it’s strictly … Read more
Kebab Kid, 90 New King’s Road, London SW6 4LU. Takeaway only, cash only, kebabs £4.75-£9.50. Nusr-Et Steakhouse, 101 Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7EZ (01821 687738), steaks £85-£1,450. It’s a Sunday lunchtime and I’m sitting outside a restaurant in London’s Knightsbridge, famous for serving a £1,450 steak, eating an £8.50 kebab. I have brought my own table, … Read more
Pasta with pesto alla Genovese Niklas Ekstedt, owner of Ekstedt, Stockholm Pasta with pesto alla Genovese is definitely one of my favorite dishes. I really enjoy the simplicity of using only a few ingredients, but it is still very tasty and has a deep flavor. Start by boiling potatoes and green beans in salted water … Read more
Knafeh is a Palestinian institution, made and served throughout the Middle East, and no celebration is complete without it. It is particularly associated with Nablus, where shredded filo pastry is filled with the city’s signature firm, white, salty nabulsi cheese. A filling made only of walnuts and cinnamon is called knafeh Arabiyeh – Arabic Knafeh. … Read more
“Have you heard about Ottolenghi’s kitchen trick?” Says the beginning of the joke. I know that I know. For me, though, a kitchen hack is all about having something ready in the fridge—a chili paste, for example, or today’s flavored butter—that can make snacks and meals extra special in no time. instant. It’s also very … Read more
While dal, a general word for dried lentils, pulses, and beans, as well as the endless variety of cooked dishes in which they are prepared, is an everyday staple across the Indian subcontinent, dal makhani is, according to chef Maunika Gowardhan, “In a league of its own.” It’s mostly saved for weddings and other celebrations, … Read more